In a world where fashion trends change faster than you can say “Bela Lugosi”, gothic jewellery has carved a niche as the perennially enigmatic outsider. It exudes a distinct air of intrigue and rebellion, inviting us to explore its sinister origins, haunting inspirations, and meticulously crafted designs. So let’s deep dive into the history of gothic jewellery.
Transitioning from romanesque to gothic
The term “Gothic” has an interesting history. It originally referred to the Goths, an ancient Germanic tribe. However, during the Renaissance period, Italians began using “Gothic” to describe the art and architecture of the medieval era. While there may have been some lingering negative feelings towards the Goths for their role in the fall of the Roman Empire, “Gothic” wasn’t solely a derogatory term. It became a way to categorise a unique style characterised by pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses. This style often created a sense of mystery and awe, but it wasn’t exclusively associated with darkness or horror. Gothic art and architecture covered a wide range of subjects, from religious to secular themes, and while it existed during a turbulent time in history, it’s not accurately described as always being linked to violence and bloodshed.
The origins of gothic jewellery can be traced back to a transitional period following the decline of fashion for romanesque influences. While the gothic architectural style had already begun to flourish in the 12th century, the shift in jewellery style continued until the late 13th century. This transformation was driven by several factors, including the development of new jewellery-making techniques and the increased availability of precious gemstones. The establishment of stronger trade connections with the East, facilitated by traders from Venice and Genoa after the conclusion of the Crusades, played a pivotal role in making precious stones more accessible to European jewellery craftsmen. As larger cities emerged across Europe, a new fashion in jewellery popped up alongside societal changes. This era saw the birth of distinct hierarchical jewellery, from brooches and rings to collars and crowns, each reflecting the distinctive status and symbolism of the time.
Medieval architecture and macabre memorabilia
Now that we have covered the history of where the original gothic aesthetic came from, let’s talk about what we see as the gothic jewellery genre today, deep diving into all of its references.
The genesis of gothic jewellery is inseparably entwined with the architectural marvels of the Middle Ages. The soaring cathedrals, bedecked with their pointed arches and intricate stone embellishments as mentioned before, served as wellsprings of inspiration for craftsmen. It was within these hallowed walls that the dark elegance of gothic design began to unfurl, defying conventional norms with its ornate intricacy.
Gothic jewellery of antiquity also paid homage to the concept of “Memento Mori,” a Latin phrase translating to “remember that you must die.” Eerie symbols such as skulls, skeletons, and hourglasses featured prominently, serving as poignant reminders of life’s transience. These somber motifs imbued architecture as well as jewellery with a profound sense of mortality.
The Victorian influence: Queen Victoria’s grief and gothic grandeur
The inimitable Queen Victoria, who not only ruled the British Empire but also dictated fashion trends, played a huge role in gothic jewellery’s evolution. Her protracted period of mourning following the demise of Prince Albert in 1861 ushered in the era of mourning jewellery. Distinguished by the presence of black gemstones like onyx and jet, this sombre aesthetic transformed melancholy into a fashionable statement.
The darker music genres and subcultures
Fast-forward to the 20th century, and gothic jewellery found renewed vitality within the realms of music. Bands such as The Cure, Siouxsie and the Banshees, and Bauhaus led the charge in fostering a gothic subculture, replete with an appetite for jewellery that resonated with their brooding melodies. Crosses, ankhs, and amulets became badges of honour for aficionados of the dark and mysterious.
Motifs of gothic jewellery: Embellishments of the eerie
Let us now delve into the compelling motifs that frequently grace gothic jewellery:
- Skulls and Skeletons: Serving as harbingers of life’s impermanence, these motifs beckon wearers to ponder existence’s ephemeral nature.
- Crescent Moons: Conveying an aura of mystique, crescent moons contribute an element of the occult to gothic pieces.
- Crosses and Ankhs: Symbolising spirituality, these motifs are often rendered with intricate, gothic-inspired designs.
- Bats and Spiders: These nocturnal creatures, representing the mysterious and the macabre, lend an unmistakably gothic edge.
- Victorian Mourning Jewellery: Jet, onyx, and pearls evoke the aesthetic of the Victorian mourning period, inviting wearers to embrace an elegant melancholy.
Gothic jewellery: Attiring in the shadows
As we unravel the intricate tapestry of gothic jewellery, let us ponder a query of intellectual resonance: Is gothic jewellery an artistic rejection of the quotidian, a means of forging a connection with our inner enigma, or simply an aesthetic invitation to explore the shadowed corridors of style? Regardless of interpretation, one undeniable truth prevails – gothic jewellery persists in captivating, fascinating, and etching its indelible mark upon the fabric of fashion. How shall you embrace this beguiling darkness?
