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Edita in Katharine Hamnett top, Tessa Metcalfe jewellery, Adidas watch, Jeannie Richard earrings, Boohoo white shoes, Alice by Temperley trousers 5

Tessa Metcalfe: Creating Tomorrow’s Antiques Today

Edita in Katharine Hamnett top, Tessa Metcalfe jewellery, Adidas watch, Jeannie Richard earrings, Boohoo white shoes, Alice by Temperley trousers 1

Recently, while trawling through the archives, I came across a photoshoot I styled more than a decade ago featuring the work of jewellery designer Tessa Metcalfe.

The outfit feels very much of its time, but the jewellery? The jewellery has aged beautifully.

In the photographs, I’m wearing Tessa’s iconic claw necklace alongside two of her claw rings (similar here) pieces that stopped people in their tracks then and continue to do so now. And revisiting them with the benefit of hindsight got me thinking about something I spend a great deal of time considering these days:

What makes a piece of jewellery collectible?

As someone who spends much of her time hunting down antique jewels, researching gemstones and uncovering the stories behind extraordinary pieces, I’ve learned that the answer isn’t always rarity or value.

Often, it’s originality. And Tessa Metcalfe has that in abundance.

The jewellery designer who made pigeons glamorous

In a jewellery industry often obsessed with perfection, Tessa Metcalfe built her reputation by celebrating the overlooked.

Her work famously draws inspiration from London’s pigeons, transforming claws and other natural forms into beautifully crafted pieces that sit somewhere between the macabre and the magnificent. It’s a bold concept, but one that has become instantly recognisable.

In an age when many jewellery collections can feel interchangeable, that’s no small achievement.

What I admire most is that beneath the shock factor lies genuine craftsmanship. Every piece feels intentional. Every piece tells a story.

The claw collection, in particular, has become synonymous with Tessa’s name.

Like the panther became synonymous with Cartier or the serpent with Bulgari, the claw has evolved into a signature motif that collectors instantly recognise.

That’s incredibly rare in contemporary jewellery.

From antique inspiration to future heirlooms

Perhaps one of the reasons Tessa’s work resonates with me is her appreciation for jewellery history.

Although her designs feel thoroughly modern, they’re underpinned by many of the qualities that make antique jewellery so compelling: symbolism, storytelling and individuality.

There is something almost Victorian about her fascination with the natural world. The Victorians were masters at transforming unexpected subjects into wearable art, whether insects, serpents, acorns or claws. Jewellery wasn’t merely decorative; it was personal, symbolic and often a conversation starter – especially if it’s about every Victorian’s favourite subject, death. More about mourning jewellery here.

Tessa’s work taps into that same spirit. Like the antique jewels I find myself drawn to time and time again, her designs don’t chase trends. They create their own visual language.

As collectors, we’re constantly looking backwards to understand why certain pieces survive generations while others disappear into obscurity. The answer is rarely about price alone. It’s about recognisability, craftsmanship and originality. When I look at Tessa’s claw jewellery, I see all three.

Why collectors love Tessa Metcalfe

One of the questions I’m asked most frequently is what makes contemporary jewellery worth collecting.

The truth is that most modern jewellery isn’t designed with longevity in mind. Trends come and go at lightning speed. Collectible jewellery is different. It has a distinct point of view, and it has a signature style.

Tessa’s jewellery possesses these qualities. The claw motif is instantly identifiable. The craftsmanship is exceptional. And the narrative behind the work feels authentic rather than manufactured. That’s exactly what future collectors look for.

When we admire antique jewellery today, we’re often looking at pieces that represented something genuinely different when they were first created. The same can be said of Tessa’s work.

Looking at these pieces through different eyes

When I first wore these pieces for the photoshoot, I was drawn to their drama. Today, I appreciate something else entirely: Their permanence.

More than ten years later, the claw necklace remains every bit as striking as I remember. The rings still feel simultaneously elegant and slightly dangerous, a combination I suspect many jewellery lovers can appreciate.

Most importantly, they haven’t dated. If anything, they feel more relevant now than they did then. Perhaps that’s because the jewellery world has become increasingly crowded with pieces designed for social media rather than longevity. Against that backdrop, Tessa’s work feels refreshingly authentic.

The future antique test

One of the ways I evaluate jewellery today is by asking myself a simple question: Will collectors still be talking about this piece in fifty years?

I know, nobody has a crystal ball. But the jewellery that tends to endure shares certain characteristics. It has a strong identity. It reflects its maker. It captures a moment in time while remaining timeless.

And that’s Tessa Metcalfe’s claw collection. This is why, when I look back at these photographs now, I don’t simply see contemporary jewellery, I see the kind of work future collectors will hunt for. I see tomorrow’s antiques.

Is that perhaps the greatest compliment any jewellery designer could receive?

Edita in Katharine Hamnett top, Tessa Metcalfe jewellery, Adidas watch, Jeannie Richard earrings, Boohoo white shoes, Alice by Temperley trousers 5
Edita in Katharine Hamnett top, Tessa Metcalfe jewellery, Adidas watch, Jeannie Richard earrings, Boohoo white shoes, Alice by Temperley trousers 6
Edita in Katharine Hamnett top, Tessa Metcalfe jewellery, Adidas watch, Jeannie Richard earrings, Boohoo white shoes, Alice by Temperley trousers 2
Edita in Katharine Hamnett top, Tessa Metcalfe jewellery, Adidas watch, Jeannie Richard earrings, Boohoo white shoes, Alice by Temperley trousers 4
Edita in Katharine Hamnett top, Tessa Metcalfe jewellery, Adidas watch, Jeannie Richard earrings, Boohoo white shoes, Alice by Temperley trousers 3
Edita in Katharine Hamnett top, Tessa Metcalfe jewellery, Adidas watch, Jeannie Richard earrings, Boohoo white shoes, Alice by Temperley trousers 7


Top: Katharine Hamnett, Rings and necklace: Tessa Metcalfe, Watch: Adidas, Earrings: JeannieRichard, Pumps: Boohoo, Trousers: Alice by Temperley, Blazer: Haute Hippie
Images: Ming Lun Chan

The original post was published June 4, 2013.

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88 Responses

  5. I just bought white pumps, so this post is perfect!! And girl, your jewelry is beautiful! You look fabulous!
    Meredith
    createthatoutfit.com

    Reply

  11. This reminds me so much of London, especially Notthing Hill, and I miss the city just by looking at your pictures! Love this outfit though, the heels are a must-have this year. Really need to get myself a pair of white heels!

    Reply

  15. Claws are great – as proved here. They are like you say fragile, but edgy as well. Awesomeness level? Too much to handle.
    But you probably guessed the fact that I like them.
    I’d be the worst person for white shoes I guess. The amount of puddles here is way too high, and I tend to do stuff with shoes that makes them dirty (something with rain and beer, mostly). As usual you rock them.
    But still I don’t get how you keep them clean…
    x

    Reply

    1. Just don’t wear ’em when the rain’s pouring! And probably they won’t do well for a walk in the park either 🙂
      Other than that – I am sure you can rock them too, Astrid. You could rock literally ANYTHING.

      Reply

  30. Wow, you look completely different from the girl on the last post. I love it though!

    Those shoes are really cute… I hate it when people have those little outfit rules like “white shoes look like wedding shoes.” I want white heels, but I am afraid I will make them dirty in less than a day.

    xx

    Reply

  39. I love this outfit, it’s so chic. I really have a thing for pastel colours, such pretty colours! Beautiful photos by the way. You’ve got a new Bloglovin follower here, I really like your blog, the layout is so easy to read.
    On a side not I just wanted to thanks for stopping by my blog and leaving a comment. Comments mean a lot as I’ve just started blogging 🙂

    You can follow me too if you like: Facebook or Bloglovin

    https://www.facebook.com/pages/A-Day-In-The-Life-Of-Mel/631901246839015

    http://www.bloglovin.com/feed/blog/7865921

    Mel x

    Reply

  41. Firstly, you look amazing, and secondly – your blog is so easy to read! You have a way with words, and I’ll definitely be popping by again 🙂 now I’m off to browse the jewellery and probably lust over every piece xx

    Reply

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